what to do if your condensate pipe is frozen

1) Confirm that your condensate pipe is frozen, check for the white looking pipe underneath your boiler this is usually the condensate pipe which leads out to the external wall or quite possibly underneath the kitchen sink. 

Check for any fault code or that may indicate blocked condensate pipe.

Listen for any gurgling or bubbling sounds from the actual boiler. 

Faults like the above are usually signs that your condensate pipe or boiler maybe blocked with debris 

2) Locate the condensate pipe in picture 1 above, place a bucket to catch the condensate water which can sometimes be backed up the boiler or can be frozen at the nearest exposed point. 

Use your hands to feel the condensate pipe checking for colder spots this can help you identify the blockage. 

DO NOT USE BOILING WATER RISK OF PIPE CRACKING.

3) Pour some warm kettle water into a squeeze bottle, and gently pour some warm water down into  into the condensate connection 

No hot water? Things to check before calling a plumber

No hot water? What to check


Finding out you have no hot water from the taps or shower is inconvenient. There are several possible causes for it. Some you can fix yourself, while others need an expert.

What to do if you have no hot water

Don’t panic! Whilst it can be frustrating, there may be a simple fix. Take a look through the checklist below to diagnose the problem before calling a Home Expert. There could be a quick and simple fix to get hot water running from your shower and taps again.

Check the boiler is working
Check the water, gas and electricity supply
Check the boiler settings
Check the diverter valve
Check the boiler pressure
Check for leaks
Check for frozen pipes
Check the radiators
Contact a professional

Check the boiler is working

The first thing to check when you have no hot water from your shower or taps is whether your boiler appears to be working or not. Here are two simple things to look at before considering more in-depth problems.

If you need more help, check out our guide on how to diagnose common boiler problems. 

Check the display panel

The display panel of your boiler should be lit up with no error codes if working correctly. If the lights on the panel are off, your boiler could be switched off or have no power. If this is the case, jump to the water, gas and electricity supply section for further checks on your power supply.

If your boiler is on, has the display panel changed colour or does it show an error code? If it does, check your boiler’s


Is the boiler set correctly?

The settings on boilers can vary. Older models may only have a thermostat, while more modern boilers will have more options. If some of these controls aren’t on the boiler, they will be on your programmer instead.

Run through the list below to check everything is set up correctly for hot water:

• Check the boiler or programmer is set to the ‘on’ position for hot water.

• Check the thermostat is turned up high enough to produce hot water.

• Check the boiler or programmer is set to ‘heating and water’ rather than ‘heating only’.

• Try resetting your boiler. Press the reset button if there is one, or turn it off, wait a few minutes, then switch it on again.

Is the timer working?

Power cuts, failed batteries and the clocks changing can put your timer out of sync.

Check the time on the display and adjust it if it’s incorrect. The user manual will tell you how if you’re not sure.

Also, check when the hot water is set to go on and off. Ensure it’s on for long enough to heat the water adequately and supply enough for your needs. If there’s no hot water in the shower, you may have used it all before the boiler’s set to come on again.

Check the diverter valve

A diverter valve is found inside combi boilers. It opens and closes to provide hot water in both the radiators and the taps.

The valve should prioritise hot water over the heating. So, when you turn on a hot tap, it switches the flow from the radiators to the tap until you turn the tap off.

If you have heating but no hot water, the diverter valve could be faulty or stuck in the heating position. Or, if the central


If your boiler’s working but there’s no hot water, check your heating. Are the radiators cold when the heating’s on, or are there cold spots?

If there are, there could be a build-up of matter inside the radiators, restricting water flow. A heating engineer can fix this issue by conducting a system Powerflush.

Contact a professional

Hopefully, this checklist has helped you diagnose why you have no hot water. And you may have been able to rectify some of the simpler causes yourself.

If you diagnosed a fault with your boiler, it’s crucial you don’t attempt to fix it yourself as this could be extremely dangerous. We recommend you contact HomeServe for help.

•
heating isn’t working but the hot water is, it could be stuck in the hot water position. Checking, repairing or replacing a diverter valve is a job that must only be carried out by a Gas Safe engineer. 

Check the boiler pressure

If you notice the water from your hot taps is running at a lower flow rate than usual, you may have low water pressure.

Look at the water pressure gauge on the front of your boiler. It should show a reading of between one and two bars. Anything below one bar is low, while 2.75 bars and above is high.

If your pressure is too low, you can usually repressurise your boiler yourself.

Water leaks can also cause drops in water pressure. So, if your pressure is still low after re-pressurising, jump to the next section for advice on leaks.

Check for leaks

Water leaks can cause the pressure to drop, which in turn stops your hot water working. Some leaks can be so small that the pressure drop is very gradual.

To detect a water leak in your home check for damp patches in the following places:

• Around radiators

• Around pipes

• Around your boiler

• On ceilings

• Flaking paint or swollen woodwork.

Don’t look for leaks inside the boiler unit itself. Just look around the outside without taking the cover off. If you need more help check how to diagnose a leaking boiler and call a Gas Safe engineer if you diagnose a leak.

Top tip: Make sure you don’t mistake condensation for a leak.

Check for frozen pipes

If your hot water is not working when temperatures have been very low, you could have a frozen pipe. Signs of frozen pipes are:

• There’s no water from the hot taps or only a trickle

• You can visibly see a pipe is frozen over

• You notice odd smells coming from taps or drains

The most likely places where pipes can freeze are:

• Anywhere that pipes haven’t been sufficiently insulated

• At the point where pipes enter your home

• Pipes inside cupboards where warm air can’t reach them

• Your boiler’s condensate pipe. This carries condensation from the boiler to the drain outside

• Try thawing out frozen pipes by pouring hot (but not boiling) water over them or use a hot water bottle.

Check the radiators

•
instruction manual to find out what it means.

A reset will fix some faults. There may be a button on your boiler for this. If not, switch it off, wait a few minutes, then switch it on again.

Some error codes will show a more significant problem that requires a Gas Safe engineer. Your boiler manual should tell you if this is the case.

Is the pilot light on?

There’s a little window on the front of your boiler through which you can see the pilot light. It should be lit and burning bright blue.

If it’s orange or yellow, there could be carbon monoxide present, which is extremely dangerous. If this is the case, turn the boiler off and call a Gas Safe engineer immediately.

If it’s not lit, refer to your boiler’s instruction manual to relight it. If it doesn’t relight, there could be a problem with your gas supply. If it ignites, but keeps going out again, call a Gas Safe engineer. 

Check the water, gas and electricity supply

If the checks above highlighted there’s no power or gas to your boiler, there could be a problem with your supply. It’s also worth exploring your water supply to resolve any water flow problems that could be causing the issue.

Water supply

Without removing the boiler cover, check if you can hear water flowing through the pump. Also, check there’s water coming out of the hot taps. If you have a conventional system, check the header tank that stores the water in your loft. If it’s low or empty, there could be a problem with the float valve. 

If the header tank is full and water flows from the taps but doesn’t flow through the pump in your boiler, call a Gas Safe engineer. 

Gas or oil supply

If the pilot light on your boiler is out and won’t relight, check your gas supply. If you’ve got other gas appliances, the easiest way to check your supply is to see if they’re working. If you don’t have other gas appliances, look at your gas meter to see if it’s on. If there’s no gas, contact your gas supplier.

If you use oil, check there’s enough in the tank by reading the gauge and get it refilled if necessary.

Electricity supply

If the boiler’s display panel is off or the pressure gauge is at zero, there may be no power to it.

• Check the power to the boiler hasn’t been switched off.

• Check if you have electricity to your lights and sockets. There may be a power cut.

• Check your fuse box. Something could have tripped a switch to turn your electricity off.

• If your home has power, check the fuse for your boiler and replace it if it’s blown. If it blows again, it indicates a problem with your boiler which requires a Gas Safe engineer.

Check the boiler settings

If there’s no hot water from the boiler, despite it being on and appearing to work, there are a few other easy fixes to try.

Common Water Leaks In The Home And How To Fix Them

Common Water Leaks In The Home And How To Fix Them

We often take home plumbing for granted. From a turn of the tap for water to a refreshing shower in the morning, having water in the home is amazing. However, with this power, it can bring issues, such as burst pipes or perhaps, more commonly, water leaks. Water leaks will often start as so small that they are barely noticeable, but they can quickly become costly when it comes to your water bill and its repair.

To save you money, it is essential to detect and be aware of the most common water leaks and how to fix them so that you can protect your home (and bank balance).

How To Detect A Water Leak In Your Home



Before you can fix a water leak, you need to know that you have one to fix. A smart water leak detector such as LeakBot can work wonders at monitoring your home and water usage to detect and alert you to a leak. Furthermore, the LeakBot can even arrange an expert plumber to fix the leak for you, so you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

How to check a water leak in your home

Alternatively, if you want to detect a water leak in your home, you can check your water usage. If it has gone up significantly without reason, then this could be a leak. You can also take a meter reading and wait two hours ensuring not to use any water and take another meter reading. If your usage has increased, this indicates a leak.

How To Fix The Most Common Water Leaks

How to fix a dripping tap



Perhaps something most homes have encountered is the drip, drip, drip from a tap. This can happen for a variety of reasons such as general wear and tear, a build up of debris or when someone doesn’t turn the tap tight enough. It can even leak if someone over-tightens the valve as it can lead to damage to the washer in the tap.

If you have a leaking tap, then it is wise to inspect the tap to determine the cause. Firstly, switch off the water supply through an isolator valve or the stopcock. Then if you feel comfortable to do so, open up the tap and inspect the washer.

You may notice that it has a build-up of debris which you can clean away. Alternatively, the washer may have damage, and it is time for a replacement. Only replace the washer if you feel comfortable to do so. If you don’t, a competent handyman or plumber will be happy to assist.

How to fix a leaky radiator

Another common water leak is through a leaking radiator. A leaking radiator can cause significant damage to your floor, ceiling and even wiring, so it is vital to fix it right away. A water leak in the radiator could be from a number of different causes such as a leaking valve or valve spindle. Alternatively, it may be leaking because of corrosion or pipe coupling.

Most of the fixes for a leaking radiator will require draining the system and refilling it. Furthermore, the components of a radiator are relatively fiddly and can be difficult to master. For a leak in the radiator, determine where you think the leak is coming from, then turn off your water supply and then it is usually best to call a plumber to resolve the issue for you.

How to fix a leaking plastic water pipe joint

If you spot a leak from a plastic/PVC water pipe joint, then the good news is that you may be able to fix the issue yourself. Remember, water can travel a long way before it drips as a leak, so you need to make sure you know exactly which joint the leak is coming from. Start by drying the area thoroughly and working out exactly where the water is coming from and whether it is the pipe or water pipe joint that is leaking.

Once you know the source of the leak, turn off the water for the affected area, or turn off the water at the mains supply if that is easiest.

Then get to work in fixing a leak. If you feel competent, remove and replace the affected section of the pipe. However, this may require cutting tools and equipment you may not have. Alternatively, you can make an easy temporary fix using rubber or silicone repair tape which is quick and easy to use. Repair epoxy can be even easier to use around plastic water pipe joint leaks, and it can mould to fit the shape of the joint.



If you have a leaking plastic water pipe, then the process is much the same as how to fix a leaking plastic water pipe joint. First make sure you know exactly where the leak is coming from, turn off the water supply and then either replace the affected water pipe or use a quick fix such as tape and epoxy.

Alternatively, for a super quick fix, you can use a rubber and hose clamp to give you some time before you can call a plumber out to make the fix.

How to fix a leaking water pipe underground

Another common water leak in the home is a burst pipe in the garden. Some of the indicators of this will be water coming up in the garden, or a large puddle in the garden when you haven’t had significant rainfall. Due to the difficulty in accessing the leaking water pipe underground, it really is best to call a competent plumber to solve the issue for you.

By using a smart leak detector device in your home, then it can not only detect the leak and warn you through an app-based notification, but it can also organise a plumber to come around and fix it for you. This can be a great cost-effective way that means you avoid the hard work of digging up your garden to determine the depth of the pipe and where the leak is coming from.

How to fix leaking from bottom of toilet


How to fix a leaking plastic water pipe


A leaking toilet is probably considered one of the worst leaks in the house due to its unsanitary nature. However, there are often some simple fixes. If you notice a leak at the base or bottom of the toilet after you flush it, then it may be an issue with the Rubber seal on the base of the toilet or the tee bolts that keep your toilet in place.

If you notice a leak from the bottom of a toilet, and you’re sure it’s from the base, then make sure to stop using the toilet. The leaking water will be dirty water from the toilet bowl. You’ll need disinfectant to hand when clearing up from the leak and you do not want to damage the floor or ceiling underneath with unhealthy water.

To fix this type of leak, you need to make sure the toilet is positioned correctly; you have a replacement wax ring and an adjustable wrench so that you can unscrew and tighten bolts. Some people may feel competent in handling this repair themselves. However, if you don’t have the repair tools to hand, then it is often much safer and cost-effective to call out your local plumber to fix the issue.

If it is not the base of the toilet, then leaks can appear from a number of other locations. For example, a crack in the bowl can cause a considerable leak. In this case, the toilet will usually need replacing altogether.

Other leaks may be from damage to the ballcock and float. If this occurs, then water will continue to fill up the cistern and cause an overflow. Similarly, a worn feed line can also mean that water continually enters the tank which can cause a leak and overflow.

How to fix a leaking shower or bath



Whether you have a shower enclosure or bath, there are several aspects that could be leaking, and you need to check. The first thing to check is the seal around the plughole and overflow waste. If the seal is broken, then this can cause an overflow or leak.

Another area to check is the pipes that connect the water supply to the bath taps or shower hose. To detect this leak, you may need to remove the side panel of the bath. For the shower, these potentially leaking pipes may be hidden behind a wall. However, the damage is usually easy to spot through tile lifting.  Don’t leave it until it is too late to fix the leaking pipes; they can cause a considerable amount of damage.

Finally, another common bath leak issue is when the silicone seal around the bathtub starts to degrade allowing moisture to seep through. With this in mind, it is important to seal the bath regular to prevent moisture damage around the bath.

Need a one-off repair to fix a leak in your home? You can count on our expert repairs team to get things working again in no time.

Don’t let a burst pipe or blocked drain slow you down. Take out plumbing and drainage cover and get access to a nationwide network of trusted engineers.

How to remove a radiator for decorating

How to remove a radiator for decorating

Sometimes we look around a room and think, ‘this could do with a makeover’ and off we go, choosing paint or wallpaper, picking out carpets or blinds…it’s great fun. One task that almost nobody thinks is fun is the chore of removing a radiator to paint or paper behind it, but we hope that our list of hints, tips and hacks is going to change that!

How to remove a radiator – first steps

Before you do anything, assemble the tools you’re going to need – there’s only one thing worse than realising you need a towel, or a spanner that you haven’t got, and that’s realising you’ve got the towel, or the spanner, but you put it down just out of reach and now you’re holding a heavy radiator…

Step 1 – the necessary tools

• Radiator key (aka the bleed key. This is the little tool that bleeds air out of radiators, it fits in a socket at the top of the radiator)

• Adjustable spanner (or a normal spanner that fits, try it first to be sure)

• Towels and a sponge

• Paint roller tray (if you don’t have one of these, get a couple of old plastic take-away containers – they need to be shallow enough to fit under the radiator but big enough to take a reasonable amount of water)

• Bucket

• Dust sheet

The optional tools

1. Screwdriver
2. Pair of tights
3. Metal lubricant spray.

Step 2 – preparation


There’s a big nut, probably at either end of the radiator, between the radiator and the valves, and you want the one at the opposite end to the TRV. Pad around the pipe and under the radiator with old towels and have your paint roller tray or takeaway tray handy. Loosen this nut with your adjustable spanner, remembering to hold against the turn to stop twisting the valve on the pipework, then loosen the bleed valve at the top of the radiator with the radiator key and water will start to leak out. Catch it in the tray and tighten the nut when the tray is nearly full so you can empty the tray into the bucket. Loosen the nut to repeat the process until the radiator is empty.

Top tip 1 – just loosen off the nut at the other end of the radiator (where the TRV is, if you have one), but before you do, pad that area with towels and have something ready to catch water. You’ll often find there’s a little water pooled at that end which you need to drain before you lift the radiator, otherwise, it will spill onto the floor.

Remove the radiator

•


Lift the radiator slightly up and away from the brackets and walk back a couple of steps, keeping it level, then transfer it to the storage area you’ve prepared for it. Remember that the last water in a radiator can be pretty grungy and black, so when you’re carrying it, you want to be sure that somebody else has that sponge in their hand so they can crouch down and wipe away any drips as they emerge.

Top tip 2 – clean your radiator! If you have those old fashioned radiators or even the modern ‘retro’ ones, you’re probably looking the amount of dust trapped in the radiator with horror. Removing a radiator gives you the chance to undertake a really deep clean. Take that pair of tights and dangle it in between the radiator pipes, then catch hold the dangling end and pull them back and forwards briskly, watching the dust fly! Move along to the next set of pipes and repeat. The static generated by the tights attracts the dust to them, rather than the radiator. Because the towel below the radiator is damp, it will cause any remaining dust to settle so that it doesn’t simply fly back up to the radiator.

Top tip 3 – maintain like a pro. Radiator valves are prone to becoming stuck and can even rust. A suitable lubricant, applied at this point, can save you problems in future with stuck valves. Simply spray your chosen lubricant onto a clean cloth and gently rub over the valve area. Repeat this action with your radiator pipework. As a bonus, if you drip or spray paint onto your radiator pipes, you will find it’s much easier to remove if the pipes are lightly coated with lubricant.

Step 4 – decorate

•


Paint or paper your wall, and if you’re painting your radiator, this is the time to do it. Use specialist radiator paint, which is designed for metal and will resist discolouration at high temperatures. Apply paint when the radiator is cold and allow to dry. Leave painting radiators to the end of the process as you’ll want to re-heat the radiator within 24 hours to ensure the paint cures effectively. Most modern radiators nowadays are stove enamel so painting them isn’t required!

Step 5 – rehang the radiator after decorating

It’s simply a case of reversing the process:

• Rehang the radiator on its brackets any small plastic inserts on the radiator brackets should also be replaced

• Tighten both nuts to reconnect the valves to the radiator

• Close the bleed valve completely, using the radiator key

• Restore the TRV to its original position

• Now turn the other valve to the left to open it and allow the radiator to fill up

• Use the radiator key to release trapped air by opening the bleed valve as necessary

• Re-pressurise your boiler – to increase pressure, find the filling loop (a flexible hose under the boiler with a valve at each end) open the valve heads slightly using a screwdriver to let in cold water from the mains to fill up the system. When the pressure is the same as the original pressure, close the valves.

Step 6 – the secret to happy radiators

Here’s a sad fact: air and water, when they combine in a radiator, cause corrosion – this makes any radiator less efficient and shortens its lifespan. Plumbers deal with this by adding an anti-corrosion fluid, which is called an inhibitor, to the system. You can do this yourself quite easily, by checking the manufacturer’s instructions for your boiler.

If it’s a sealed system you use an inhibitor cartridge – which you inject through the bleed valve in the top of the radiator. If it’s an open vent system (which means you have an expansion tank or a cistern) you add the inhibitor to the cistern. You can buy inhibitor at any good DIY store and then just follow instructions.

•

Cool the system

This is obvious but sometimes gets overlooked. Make sure the radiator and pipes are completely cold before you begin work. If you’re decorating in winter, this may mean getting an alternative source of heating in the room while you decorate, such as a portable heater. You really don’t want to be handling boiling water gushing out of a red-hot radiator, but nor do you want to be decorating in refrigerator-like temperatures.

Set up a radiator storage area

When you’ve removed the radiator, you need somewhere to put it down while you decorate. Ideally, this should be in another room, but if that’s not possible, pick a wall space in the room you are decorating to lean the radiator against. Pad the floor area with towels so that any residual drips are safely caught and don’t ruin your floor. If you’re going to clean your radiator, slightly dampen the top towel in the pile – read down to our top tip 2 to find out why.

See how much play there is in the radiator

Check how much flex there is in the radiator pipes. Sometimes, especially if a concrete or laminate floor has been laid above existing plumbing, there may be very little room for manoeuvre and in that case, it’s a good idea to get somebody to help you with the removal part.

Remove radiator shelves

Lots of homes now have those cute radiator shelves that make good use of wall space, but to be honest, we’ve lost count of how many many knocked elbows, banged shoulders and bumped heads we’ve seen when people try to remove a radiator without first taking down the shelf.  Take a good hard look at the space you’ve got to work in, and consider using that screwdriver to remove the shelf above the radiator before tackling the radiator itself.

Note the pressure level

If you have a pressurised heating system there will be a little dial on the boiler, don’t make a note of the pressure in your mind, grab your phone and take a picture. That way, if you have any delays or distractions to the process, you’ve always got a clear record of where the pressure needs to be.

Turn the Thermostatic Regulator Valve (TRV) zero or off

The TRV’s are set to open automatically at a certain temperature. If the temperature in the room drops, the valve could open and cause a flood when the radiator is removed.

Step 3 – the action

Close the radiator valves

There is a valve at each end of the radiator, in modern systems one is likely to be the lock shield and the other the Thermostatic Regulator Valve (TRV) or a wheel-head valve – which is the one with the numbers on that allows you to adjust the amount of heat each radiator generates. The valves turn right to close, left to open, which leads to the old plumber’s rhyme, “Righty tighty, lefty loosey”. Count how many turns to take to close each valve – this is how many turns in the opposite direction you’ll need to take to reconnect them properly.

Drain the radiator